Betty Dodson with Carlin Ross

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Read on to find out. Your breasts will thank you.

Normally after developing breasts a girl goes to a lingerie store, picks a bra in the color she likes and buys it. Size is not very important to her. Her small perky boobs will mean she choses something with an A in the size. If she has "average" chest she will pick 34C or 34B. If she has big boobs she will probably end up with 36C or 36D. Because DD is SO large that only porn stars and strippers wear it ;)

The girl will most likely wear her 34C into womanhood, through weight gains and drops, till late stages of her first pregnancy, or even longer. Meanwhile her boobs will sag and sag. She will buy tightening creams, do push ups - but nothing will help. She might get so desperate to get her breasts cut and stitched higher to her chest - so that they look the same as they did when she was younger. But everything she tries is doomed to fail because she's not going to amend the cause of the problem.

I was that girl once. I didn't get pregnant, but when I was 18 I lost about 10 kg (22 lb) due to hormonal changes. My boobs looked so pathetic I didn't want to look at them. I thought that massages, creams and exercise would help. Two years had gone by and there was no improvement. I gave up. And then I came across a wonderful Polish blog. It explained exactly what I was doing wrong. The blog talked about things I didn't know existed - bands tighter than 34, cup sizes larger than F worn by average girls etc.

It's been almost two years since I got professionally fitted. Now my breasts look much better. They still aren't firm enough for me to post a frontal nude here but I'm getting there. I won't explain the theory of proper bra-fitting here - I'll just give a couple of tips. For more information check out:

* Bra-sizing
* Some posts from the Polish blog that got translated
* Fig leaves videos - use the menu on the right!
* Tips for Tits
* Is 32DDD same as 32F?
* Bra-fitting cicade
* Break out of the bra matrix

Bra size consists of two elements - a number and a letter (or two letters). The number describes the length of the band and the letter assigns a cup size. Cup volume changes not only from letter to letter but also from band size to band size. It's obvious that 32B is smaller than 32C. But also 30B is smaller than 38A. It's because cups and band sizes are proportional - 30D and 36D will have the same proportions, the second bra will look like the first one - only magnified.

Since the volume is the same why not wear 34C in stead of 30E or 30F? The former size is definitely easier to get. Those bras have different proportions. 34C has larger band and wider but shallower cups than 30F. To illustrate this I drew the under-wires and view of the breasts from the side:

The lady on the left is slim but has very large breasts (I overindulged a bit to make a point ;)). She needs a tight band to support them and large cups to put them into. The lady on the right has small breasts and a sturdy frame. She will need larger band and smaller cups. That's why they are more likely to wear 28H (green) and 34C (red). Not the other way around.

The common mistake when choosing a bra is settling for a band that is just too loose. Most shops don't carry 28-32 bands. When you settle, you pick a looser band and a cup with a smaller letter (volume is comparable but the shape is different!). Oftentimes you have to pick a cup that is too small in volume. And that hurts your breasts. It changes the way fatty tissue lays on your frame. Some of the fat gets squeezed out of the cups and goes under the armtits or even to your back. Hard to believe? Clothes can change the way your bones and internal organs lay, moving fat is far easier.

A band that is too loose won't give you support. To lift the breasts you'll tighten the straps - that will make the back of the bra ride up. Like on the see-saw the breasts will go down again.

So how do you choose a correct bra?

1. Go to a shop with good pro bra-fitting. A shop that doesn't have bras with bands below 32 and cups above G is probably not a good choice even if you think you don't need those things. If you can't find a good store you have to go through this on your own - get friendly with eBay.

2. Breath out. Measure under your breasts very tightly - the measuring tape doesn't stretch, the elastic band of the bra does.

3. Find a correct band. For stretchy bands (most Freya and Panache bras) you can ad an inch or two to your measurement, for tighter ones (LaSenza UK) even four inches can be added. The most important thing is the end result. The band that is correctly fitted lets you breathe easily but doesn't move. If the bra fits better on the tightest hook choose a smaller band. Additional hooks are used to make the bra tighter after it stretches during use. They are not put there in case you put on weight as I once believed ;). To avoid mistakes try fastening the bra with the cups laying against your stomach.

4. Find your cup size. Cup size can be found only after finding the band. To make sure you're doing this correctly pick a soft bra. Any padding will hide the shape and fit. Use the tables to predict your cup size - watch out for different sizing systems. Then put on a bra correctly. All the fatty tissue must go into the cup. If something is bulging try a larger cup. If you can't fill the cup take a bra with a smaller cup.

5. Test the bra. Jump, move your arms up and down. If everything stays in place you are set!

6. If your bra looks like it should be fit but doesn't look appealing on you try a different style. Full-cups are for women with round and firm breasts. Contrary to what we are told sagging breast need something more revealing! My style is half-cups and balconettes.

So to answer the question posed in the first set of photographs:

Bras I used:

* 34C white, unnamed
* 34C blue, Atlantic
* 30F (UK) yellow, La Senza Rouched Ribbon
* 28FF (UK) white, Panache Tango II Plunge

My measurements:

* Under: 26.3 in (67 cm)
* Over: 35.8 in (91 cm)

Note: I have a bit of over-spillage - my period is coming and my breasts got a bit larger.

Take care of your boobs!